In today’s video, I’d like to welcome you to the unboxing and assembly of the Duotts F26 electric bicycle, which in my opinion offers quite a few interesting solutions for anyone looking for a powerful e-bike for everyday commutes and weekend adventures. During the video, I’ll guide you step by step on how to put it together and get it ready for its first ride, while also highlighting the features that make this model stand out.
The Duotts F26 is equipped with two 750W motors. You can activate just one of them or engage both if you need a serious boost, particularly in more challenging terrain. The bike has a redesigned frame that conceals a large Samsung battery rated at 48 V and 20 Ah. This design choice keeps the battery discreet while freeing up additional space for accessories such as a water bottle holder or other add-ons. The bike’s controller is also mounted on the frame, and there’s a rear rack available for carrying extra cargo.
It’s worth noting that Duotts is a brand recognized in Poland and across Europe. Previously, I tested the Duotts C29; if you haven’t seen that video yet, you’ll find a link in the description. Today, however, I’m focusing on the F26, which arrives in a fairly large and heavy box. Thankfully, it comes partially assembled, which is a big help for those who aren’t especially mechanically inclined. All you need to do is take everything out of the box, remove the protective packaging from the front wheel, mount the handlebar, attach the wheel and rear rack, and install the pedals. After pumping up the tires and charging the battery, you’re ready to set off.
In addition to the standard components, the set includes a phone/document pouch for the handlebar, a throttle grip for purely electric riding (which you need to install separately), zip ties, a multi-tool, reflectors, and covers for the screws. Naturally, there’s also a user manual that’s worth reading so you don’t overlook any important details.
As you’ll see in the background of the video, I’m showing each assembly stage while introducing the technical specifications of the F26. Its two motors provide a combined 2 × 65 Nm of torque, which translates into a truly robust drive, particularly off-road. The manufacturer claims a range of between 100 and 120 km in pedal-assist mode using only one motor, and between 40 and 60 km in purely electric mode. The top speed is limited at the factory to 25 km/h, though this can be easily changed in the settings. The bike supports a maximum load of 150 kg, which should be enough for most riders.
The F26 also has large 26-inch wheels and wide 4-inch tires, meaning it handles just fine on forest trails, dirt roads, and paved streets alike. You’ll also find hydraulic disc brakes, a USB port for charging your phone, and a clear display with speed, distance, and various settings. Keep in mind, though, that the bike weighs about 40 kg with the battery installed, so you’ll definitely feel that weight if you need to lift or carry it. There’s only one frame size available, supposedly suitable for heights from 170 to 200 cm. I’ll show you how that works out in practice in my upcoming detailed review.
Returning to the assembly: I used a bike stand to simplify the process, but if you don’t have one, you can flip the bike upside down on a soft surface—foam or a blanket—to avoid scratching it. Once you’ve removed all the protective packaging, watch out for the hydraulic brake pads and make sure the front wheel seats correctly in the fork. I generally tighten the screws by hand initially to let the wheel settle in place, then I secure them firmly with a wrench.
A crucial step is connecting the front motor correctly. The plugs have arrows that must line up, and you need to push them together firmly until you hear a click. At first, I thought mine was attached securely, but it wasn’t fully snapped in, and the second motor wouldn’t power on. A good way to check if both motors work is to ride uphill on electric-only mode, then feel if both motors are warm afterward—if they are, both are operational.
Next up is mounting the fenders and headlight. The manufacturer has conveniently left the screws in place, so you just unscrew them, position the fender and lamp correctly, and tighten them again. Then you move on to the rear rack. One of my screws came loose during shipping and wound up at the bottom of the box, but I managed to find it. Don’t fully tighten all the screws until the rack is lined up symmetrically on both sides.
Attaching the pedals is straightforward: they’re labeled “left” and “right,” with the right pedal marked in red alongside an arrow showing the direction of threading. Afterward, you connect the cable that powers the taillight (it’s marked in blue) and secure the wiring with zip ties so it doesn’t dangle.
Swapping the standard grip for the throttle grip was the most time-consuming part for me. The original grip was on so tightly that I spent almost an hour wiggling it. On top of that, the brake levers were screwed on very firmly, so I couldn’t just slide them over. In the end, warming up the standard grip with a hair dryer helped loosen it enough to replace it with the throttle grip. Then I just plugged the throttle cable into the controller, made sure all the screws were tight, and charged the battery.
With that done, the bike was ready for its first test ride! I encourage you to check out my short riding videos, which you’ll find in Shorts or on TikTok, and stay tuned for my in-depth review of the Duotts F26, where I’ll see how all these features and specs play out in real-world conditions. See you in the next video!
Coupon for this model
-200EURO, JOTEMF26 https://tinyurl.com/DuottsF26
